Exploring Albania: A 10-Day Adventure
Albania is exploding in tourism these days, mostly thanks to social media like TikTok and Instagram. After some turbulent recent history, the balkan country is finally getting the recognition it deserves as a must-visit destination in Europe. With vast mountain ranges, crystal clear coasts and beaches, incredible natural wonders, beautiful people and stunning cuisines, Albania is an extremely affordable paradise for all kinds of travellers.
Over ten days and without the need to hire a car, I’ll guide you through this remarkable destination; from the fast-growing vibrant capital of Tirana, to the city of a thousand windows in Berat, and along the “Bora Bora” of Europe in Ksamil. If there is anywhere in Europe I would recommend visiting before it becomes too popular, it would be Albania, with tips on navigating transport, the best places to eat and discovering the best of Albania, this is my ultimate guide to the jewel of the Balkans.
*As always, make sure to add all bold words to your to-do list!
Day 1: A Warm Welcome to Tirana
Hello Tirana!
Touching down in Tirana, Albania’s vibrant capital, I was immediately struck by the energy of the city and its people. We checked into our cozy Airbnb a short walk away from Skanderbeg Square, the heart of Tirana. Named after Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg, Albania’s national hero, this expansive square is the perfect starting point for our adventure.
Skanderbeg Square
Setting out to explore, first on our list was the National History Museum. The museum’s exterior, adorned with a giant mosaic called “The Albanians,” depicting key moments in Albania’s history, sets the tone for the rich history within. Each hall tells a different chapter of Albania’s story, from ancient Illyrian and Ottoman artifacts, to the harrowing tales of the communist era. It is due to these harrowing tales that it’s so important to learn about the recent history of Albania to truly connect with its people, wandering the streets you can’t help but acknowledge the very people talked about in these stories are walking amongst you.
National History Museum, Tirana
Next, we visited the nearby Et’hem Bey Mosque, a beautiful example of Ottoman architecture dating back to the early 19th century. This modest mosque, with its intricate design, offered a tranquil escape from the city’s buzz. It’s another testament to Albania’s rich Ottoman heritage.
Time for Blloku. Once a restricted area for communist elites, Blloku is now Tirana’s trendiest district. Cafes, bars, and restaurants line the streets, creating a vibrant atmosphere. We found a cozy spot at Komiteti – Kafe Muzeum, a quirky café filled with vintage decor and enjoyed some albanian coffee, much like in Turkey and Bosnia, this coffee comes as an espresso served with a sugar cube to drop in – delightful.
Et’hem Bey Mosque & Blloku
In the late afternoon, we grabbed a sandwich each from a local bakery and visited the Cloud, an open-air pavilion designed by Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto. This unique structure serves as a public gathering space and hosts various cultural events.
In the evening we headed back to our accommodation to get ready for Era, a beloved local restaurant located back in Blloku. Savouring a delicious meal of qofte (meatballs) and stuffed peppers, paired with a glass of Albanian wine. The cuisine in Albania is stunning and pairs mediterranean ingredients with balkan recipes to create a fusion of flavours that keep you coming back for more. After a lovely dinner we ended our first evening in Tirana with a walk through the lively Skanderbeg Square and some tasty ice cream to go.
Day 2: Art, Nature & History
Bunkers and Mountains
Day two began with a visit to Bunk’Art 2. This former Cold War bunker has been transformed into an underground museum. Wandering through its dimly lit tunnels, you encounter a fascinating blend of history and contemporary art. Each room told a different story, from the rise of communism to the daily life of Albanians during the regime. Give yourself a good few hours here as there’s loads of reading and learning to be done.
Bunk’art 2
Brunch time and we headed to Oborri. This stunning brunch spot and cocktail bar is situated a short walk away from the centre and is set in an outdoor garden space with lemon trees and lush greenery. Serving up the nicest food and refreshing drinks. I personally got the dirty breakfast which consisted of roasted potatoes, feta sauce, fried eggs and sausage – paired with a refreshing watermelon lemonade. With a menu more catered towards western tastes and paired with terrific Albanian hospitality we found Oborri to be the best brunch in not just Tirana, but of all the destinations we visited in Albania.
Next, it was time for some fresh air. Taking the Dajti Ekspres cable car up to Mount Dajti. The short 15-minute ride offered stunning panoramic views of Tirana and the surrounding mountains. At the top, we hiked along scenic trails and enjoyed a leisurely picnic, soaking in the serene beauty.
Mount Dajti
After a few hours in the mountains, we headed back to the city, visiting the Pyramid of Tirana. This unique and somewhat controversial structure was originally built as a museum for Enver Hoxha, Albania’s communist leader. Today, it’s a cultural hub covered in graffiti art and an intriguing piece of the city’s landscape. Climbing its sides offers a unique perspective of the city.
Pyramid of Tirana (photo credit – @ossipvanduivenbode on instagram.com)
Time for dinner and we chose Salt, a trendy restaurant known for its fusion cuisine. The menu was a delightful blend of Albanian and international flavors, and the rooftop setting provided a great view of the city. Enjoying more amazing Albanian cuisine and watching the sunset over the city was the perfect way to end our second day in Tirana.
Day 3: New Life to an Old City
A Step Back in Time
Our last day in Tirana began at the House of Leaves, Albania’s Museum of Secret Surveillance. This chilling museum, located in a former intelligence service headquarters, offered a sobering glimpse into the lives of those monitored during the communist era. The exhibits were both fascinating and haunting, providing deep insights into Albania’s recent past.
We decided to wander the colourful streets of Tirana for a while after this. The city’s buildings are a palette of colour and thanks to the booming tourism economy, it’s able to provide citywide projects aimed at revitalizing the urban landscape. Murals and street art are in abundance, making every turn a visual delight. My favorite was the Rainbow Building, a striking example of this artistic transformation.
Rainbow Building, Tirana
For lunch, we headed to Oda, a traditional Albanian restaurant. Here, we feasted on byrek, a savory pastry that comes in many forms like; meat, vegetable and cheese. After some food, we strolled through the Grand Park of Tirana. This green oasis in the city is perfect for a leisurely walk or a paddleboat ride on the artificial lake. Finding a quiet spot to relax and people-watch, we took in the lively atmosphere.
The late afternoon was spent in Pazari i Ri, Tirana’s New Bazaar. This vibrant market area is filled with stalls selling fresh produce, local delicacies, and handmade crafts. We picked up some souvenirs to bring home and eventually left with a slice of sweet baklava.
Pazari i Ri, Tirana
We ended our time in Tirana with a visit to Tirana Castle. This medieval castle of Ottoman design houses handcraft stores, restaurants and bars. We sat down at one of the numerous bars and enjoyed some wine whilst chatting about our time in this fascinating city. With a big travel day ahead of us tomorrow we headed back to our Airbnb for an early night.
Day 4: Tirana to Berat
With thanks to https://albaniatourguide.com (we couldn’t have done Albania without you!). We navigated our way to the Terminali i Autobusave të Jugut dhe Veriut – the South and North Albania Bus Terminal. This terminal is for domestic travel within Albania and has services to all major and minor destinations in Albania. Buses to Berat depart from here every 30 minutes from around 0600 until 1730 and will cost around 5 euro for the journey, lasting just under 2 hours. Remember to bring cash in Euro or Albanian Leke as card will not be accepted.
Bus travel in Albania is an experience in itself as it can be a culture shock for most westerners. Arriving at the station, buses will have their destination on the windscreen, just head on over and confirm your destination and the driver will wait for the bus to fill up before departing, and then you can pay once the bus is on its way. For all information regarding this journey and other journeys in Albania I highly recommend visiting https://albaniatourguide.com. She is a local tour guide and has up-to-date information on all things Albania.
Arriving in Berat, the City of a Thousand Windows
Berat, a small UNESCO World Heritage site known for its stunning Ottoman architecture, is as unique a little gem as you will find anywhere in europe. Its Ottoman routes strike you as soon as you come into its view. Known as the “city of a thousand windows” its nickname will quickly become apparent.
After checking into our cosy and ridiculously cheap accommodation, Guesthouse Belle View, we spent the late afternoon exploring the Berat Castle grounds. This 2500 year old castle of Ottoman and Byzantine routes is nestled atop of Berat and looks over the town. The views from the top were spectacular, overlooking the Osum River and the white-washed houses of the Mangalem and Gorica neighbourhoods.
Located within the grounds is St. Mary’s Church, which houses the Onufri National Museum. We opted not to visit the museum, however learnt it showcases beautiful icons painted by the renowned 16th-century artist Onufri – so if you have time definitely check it out! Instead, we wandered around the castle grounds simply taking in the historical surroundings and then caught the sunset under the flag of Albania in one of the castle towers. There is a small bar located to the side of the castle which serves up some ice cold drinks with the stunning backdrop of vast Albanian countryside, we highly recommend grabbing a gin and some Lays and taking in the views.
St Mary’s Church & Castle Tower
After a long day spent discovering this magnificent castle and town, we grabbed a pizza and headed back to our guesthouse overlooking the thousand windows.
Day 5: Beautiful Berat
Cultural Immersion
Today was dedicated to immersing ourselves deeper into Berat’s rich history. Starting with a visit to the Ethnographic Museum, which offers a glimpse into traditional Albanian life. The museum is set in a beautifully preserved Ottoman house, complete with original furnishings and artifacts. Next, we explored the Gorica neighborhood, crossing the Gorica Bridge over to the stone houses, which are captivating, with their large windows giving Berat its nickname, “The City of a Thousand Windows.”
Because Berat is small, there is little to do, which makes it the perfect destination to stroll around, take things slow and just admire the stunning town and its warm atmosphere. In the afternoon, we took a relaxing walk along the Osum River, eventually finding a cozy spot to enjoy another traditional Albanian coffee and some pastries for lunch (aweedander and turkish/bosnian/albanian is a love story for another blog post).
One thing we adored about Albania during our time here was the warmth and hospitality of the locals which make every experience even more special. Because of the tourism boom in the country, locals are eager to show off their beautiful culture and people, and have great respect for tourists choosing their country over more “traditional” travel destinations.
After spending most of the day wandering around and taking pictures of this magnificent little village, we headed for dinner at the restaurant Antigoni. Here we got to savour more amazing Albanian cuisine. Jani me fasule (beans with meat) and qifqi (fried rice balls) were on the menu tonight and it was another delicious way to end a day filled with history, culture and wonder.
Day 6: Berat to Gjirokaster
Onward to the Stone City
Leaving Berat you will hop on the one local bus which runs through the city (you can’t miss it) to the Terminali i Autobusave (Bus Terminal). Buses depart at 0800 & 1400 and should take just under 3 hours to reach Gjirokaster, another UNESCO World Heritage site often referred to as the “Stone City.” The drive was incredibly scenic, with the landscape shifting from rolling hills to rugged mountains.
Upon arrival, we checked into the charming, and again – ridiculously affordable – guesthouse Stone Rooms 1850, with stunning views of the city and surrounding landscape. Located close by, our first stop was Gjirokaster Castle, one of the largest castles in the Balkans. Walking through its vast grounds, we explored the military museum and the old prison. The castle offers complete panoramic views of the Drino Valley and the stone-roofed houses that give Gjirokaster its unique character.
Gjirokaster Castle
The Famous Kulla e Sahatit Clock Tower
In the evening, we were awe-struck wandering through the Old Bazaar, a lively area filled with shops selling handmade crafts, jewellery, and souvenirs. After picking up numerous little souvenirs and taking in this beautiful little destination, it was time for dinner, finding a traditional restaurant where we enjoyed more Albanian cuisine and welcoming hospitality. After some food we stumbled upon Rruga Zajtareve, a street filled with a rowdy and inviting atmosphere (and alcohol).
The Old Bazaar
Our first stop was a local Albanian pub which served up traditional shots of flavoured local liquor. There were people dancing in the streets and friendly locals keeping the atmosphere alive with warm hospitality and outrageous singing, a truly memorable moment from our time in Albania. After joining in with the dancing we then (being Irish ourselves) headed to the Gallery Irish Pub to enjoy its rooftop bar overlooking this wonderful street.
Day 7: Exploring Gjirokaster
Historical Houses
Just like Berat, our second day was spent diving deeper into Gjirokaster’s history. Starting with a visit to the Skenduli House, an excellent example of a well-preserved Ottoman-era home. The tour was fascinating, providing insights into the daily life of a wealthy family during that period.
Next, we visited the Zekate House, another beautiful Ottoman mansion with intricate woodwork and stunning views of the city. As with every corner of Gjirokaster, the blend of history and architecture was truly mesmerising. In the afternoon, it was time for Ismail Kadare House, the birthplace of the famous Albanian writer. The house has been converted into a museum dedicated to his life and works, providing a literary touch to today’s historical journey.
Similar to Berat, Gjirokaster is a small destination perfect for planning less things to do and just getting lost in its streets. We spent the rest of our day wandering around, mingling with wonderful locals, purchasing souvenirs and taking in the beauty of this stone covered city. We spent the evening Sampling Raki, the traditional Albanian drink which can be made using almost every fruit. Before heading back to our accommodation for the night, we spent some time admiring the Old Bazaar and its mountainous background.
Day 8: Gjirokaster to Sarande
Mountains to the Sea
Buses depart from the Stacioni i Autobuseve Nderqytetas ne Gjirokaster (bus terminal Gjirokaster) towards Sarande at 08:00, 09:00, 11:00, 13:30 & 17:00 for 4-5 euros. Taking around an hour from the mountains to the coast, heading towards the beautiful seaside town of Sarande. The drive took us through some stunning landscapes, approaching the coast, the turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea came into view.
Upon arrival in Sarande, we checked into our accommodation, Apartamente Rina. A simple and harmless budget-friendly stay. Spending the afternoon getting our bearings we soon realised Sarande is more like what tourists may be used to. The seaside hotels, promenade, expensive restaurants and sunny beach. It’s a lovely seaside resort that is perfect for some sun, swimming and dinner/drinks. We based ourselves in Sarande (and recommend doing so) for our tours and to the TikTok sensation, Ksamil, which we would be going to on our final day.
In the evening, we strolled along the lively promenade, enjoying the vibrant atmosphere and grabbing some ice cream before heading back to our accommodation for an early night to re-energise, needed before another early day of exploration.
Sarande – Photo Credit illyrianboutique_hotel/instagram.com
Day 9: Exploring Sarande and Butrint
Ancient Ruins and the Blue Eye
Adventure 1.
Early in the morning, today’s first adventure took us to the ancient city of Butrint, a National Archaeological Park and UNESCO World Heritage site located just a short bus from Sarande. The archaeological site is incredibly well-preserved, offering a fascinating glimpse into the history of the region. Walking through the ruins, we explored the ancient theatre, the Roman forum, and the impressive Baptistery with its intricate mosaic floor. We spent a few hours here exploring the history and learning of the different dynasties that controlled the region before hopping on the bus back to Sarande.
Adventure 2.
Arriving back in Sarande and after a quick bite to eat, we jumped on a GetYourGuide.com tour to the Blue Eye and Lekuresi Castle. The natural phenomenon of the Blue Eye – named due to its similarity to the human eye – is a water spring that can be seen, due to its pristine clear blue water, from a depth of more than fifty metres. This lush location provides serenity and an escape to nature, and if you’re brave enough to jump in its ice cold temperature you can go for a quick swim to cool off from the intense Albanian heat.
After a few hours, the tour continued back to Sarande for a visit to the ancient Lekursi Castle. From here, you get a stunning panorama of Sarande, Butrint Lagoon, and the Greek island of Corfu. Built in 1537 by the Ottoman emperor Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, when he attacked Corfu and needed control over the harbour and the Saranda-Butrint road. With its strategic location, the castle offered protection against the Venetians and held a garrison of about 200 soldiers. The castle, featuring imposing round towers, now offers a beautiful restaurant and an enormous terrace to enjoy the views overlooking the Ionian Sea.
The tour concluded after some time at Lekursi Castle, but we chose to stay here to catch the sunset overlooking the Sea. A nice way to end our second night in Sarande.
Lekursi Castle
Day 10: Ksamil
Paradise
Today we made our way to the stunning beaches of Ksamil, often referred to as the “Pearl of the Albanian Riviera.” As seen on TikTok, this relatively unknown paradise is a 45 minute bus from Sarande, with a nice drive winding along the coastline. I strongly recommend getting on the bus from the location 39°52’23.3″N 20°00’08.9″E (Bus Stop to Ksamil & Butrint). Due to its explosive popularity, the buses are a free-for-all and will be completely crammed full from the first stop, leaving you no way to hop on at any stops along the way – unless of course you fancy fighting your way on!
Upon arrival in Ksamil, we were immediately struck by the beauty of its pristine beaches. The white sandy shores and crystal-clear waters were like something out of a postcard. Truly the “Bora Bora of Europe” as described on social media. We spent the day basking in the sun on our sunbeds, eating snacks and swimming in the utterly mind-blowingly clear water. There are also an abundance of activities offered here, such as; snorkelling, boating, sailing and island hopping.
Lunch was at our sunbeds in the form of burgers and fries purchased from the beach restaurant, along with some refreshing cocktails of course! The rest of the afternoon was spent lounging on the beach, savouring every moment of this coastal paradise.
In the evening as the sun finally faded and the heat diminished, we returned to Sarande to freshen up before our final night in Albania. Choosing to dine at a charming Italian restaurant on the promenade after being convinced by its hospitable employees outside that this was the best restaurant in Sarande.
Final Reflections
Albania is a surprising, welcoming and extraordinary travel destination. From its vibrant and new capital of Tirana, to the historic charm of Berat and Gjirokaster, and finally the paradise beaches of Ksamil, this country is a hidden gem that must be discovered. Not even covering a fifth of what Albania has to offer, we felt enriched by our 10 days through the country and a great sadness that we didn’t have longer to continue adventuring through this truly hospitable and beautiful part of the world.
Grateful for the experiences and memories we had gathered over the past ten days, we concluded that Albania, with its rich history, warm hospitality and breathtaking landscapes, had made its way straight to the top of our list of countries to return to.