Bergamo is one of Italy’s hidden gems, of which there are many. Nestled between the Alps and the bustling city of Milan. Picture charming streets, medieval walls, and cosy family-run eateries where you can sip espresso and classic dishes. The city is split into two parts: the historic Città Alta, perched on a hill with panoramic views and ancient architecture, and the modern Città Bassa, where life is teaming with big-brand shopping, restaurants, and city flair. It’s a delightful blend of old-world charm and contemporary vibrancy, perfect for a few days of Italian exploration.
Day 1: Exploring the Heart of Bergamo – The Upper City (Città Alta)
TIP: As always, every word in Bold should be added to your to-do list!
I arrived in Bergamo early in the morning and, thanks to Ryanair’s cheap and regular flights from my home city of Belfast, I would have two whole days of exploration ahead of me. Stepping off the easily accessible airport bus in the middle of the lower city, I was immediately struck by the charming blend of historic architecture beaming down from the upper city, and the vibrant modern life of the lower. My destination for the day was the Città Alta, the medieval heart of Bergamo perched high up on a hill, promising cobblestone streets, classic Italian facades, and breathtaking views.
To reach the Città Alta, I opted for the funicular ride (funicolare citta alta) from the lower city (Città Bassa). As the funicular took off, the panoramic views of Bergamo unfolded below me, a feast of red-tiled roofs, lush gardens, and distant mountains. The journey, though short, is a beautiful way to begin your adventure into the Città Alta.
Emerging from the funicular station, I found myself in the heart of the Città Alta, where every corner is charming and filled with history. My first stop was the iconic Piazza Vecchia, often described as one of the most beautiful squares in Italy. Surrounded by historic buildings, the square is dominated by the Contarini Fountain in the center and the imposing Palazzo della Ragione on one side.
I strolled around, admiring the intricate details of the stunning Italian architecture. The Palazzo della Ragione, with its medieval arches and stone façade, stood as a testament to the city’s rich history. Adjacent to it, we have the Torre del Campanone (Civic Tower), where you can climb its steps for a stunning view over the city. The climb was steep, but the reward at the top was worth every effort. From the tower, I enjoyed a 360-degree view of Bergamo, the Città Alta’s rooftops mingling with the green hills and the Città Bassa stretching out below.
As always with aweedander, it was now time to indulge in the local cuisine. Exploring had made me hungry, so I headed to a nearby trattoria to sample some traditional Bergamo cuisine. I chose Trattoria da Ornella, a cosy eatery known for its hearty dishes. I started with “casoncelli,” a type of stuffed pasta typical of the region, filled with meat, breadcrumbs, and flavoured with sage and pancetta. For the main course, I opted to try “polenta e osei,” which turned out to be a savoury dish of polenta served with small game birds. The flavours were rich and unique, a perfect reflection of the local culinary heritage.
After some lunch, I continued my exploration with a visit to the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore. The basilica’s exterior, with its Romanesque architecture, was impressive, but the interior left me utterly mesmerized. The decorations and tapestries told stories of faith and artistry spanning centuries, I wont spoil this with any pictures but it’s a must-see in Bergamo. Adjacent to the basilica is the Cappella Colleoni, a Renaissance masterpiece with its stunning façade and equally gorgeous interior.
The great thing about Bergamo and the Città Alta, is that all main attractions are within footsteps of each other, making it easy to see everything within a day. I visited the Accademia Carrara next, an art gallery housing a remarkable collection of Italian Renaissance art. With works by masters such as Botticelli, Raphael, and Bellini, you’re sure to get your hit of classic Italian Renaissance art here. The museum’s layout and informative displays made it easy to appreciate the evolution of art through the ages.
As the day’s sun faded, I made my way to the Rocca di Bergamo, a fortress offering another vantage point for panoramic views. Watching the sunset from the fortress walls, the golden light beautifully bathed the city. Unlike other cities, because the Città Alta is stationed high up and facing west, the setting sun beautifully highlights both the Città Alta and Città Bassa.
For dinner, I chose to dine at Il Circolino, a local favorite known for its warm atmosphere and delicious food. Continuing to indulge myself in the local delicacies, I enjoyed a plate of “stracciatella alla bergamasca,” a creamy soup made with egg and Parmesan cheese, followed by a hearty serving of “brasato al Barolo,” beef braised in Barolo wine. Sipping a glass of local wine, it’s hard not to be overwhelmed by the beauty and warmth offered by this small Italian gem.
Day 2: Discovering the Lower City (Città Bassa) and the Home of San Pellegrinio
After a night’s sleep at my accommodation, the youth hostel Ostello di Bergamo, located just outside of the city centre and a perfect choice for budget travellers, I was ready to explore the Città Bassa. Despite being the more modern part of Bergamo, the lower city still brims with history and culture. I started my day with a stroll down Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, the main street lined with shops, cafes, and modern buildings.
My first destination was the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. The church, though less famous than its counterparts in the Città Alta, boasts beautiful interiors and a serene atmosphere, and is the perfect way to begin our day in the lower city. From there, I wandered towards the Sentierone, a broad pedestrian boulevard that serves as the social heart of the Città Bassa. The Sentierone is home to the Teatro Donizetti, named after the famous composer Gaetano Donizetti, a native of Bergamo. Although I couldn’t catch a performance, the theater’s exterior was stunning and its past was fascinating to learn about.
Bergamo is not just about history and architecture and pasta; it’s also a city of lush green spaces. I visited the Parco Suardi, a lovely park perfect to grab an espresso and head for a morning walk. The park’s lush greenery, shaded pathways, and blooming flowers provided a peaceful respite from the lower city’s hustle and bustle.
A short walk from the park and an Italian pastry later brought me to the Orto Botanico di Bergamo “Lorenzo Rota,” a botanical garden nestled on the slopes of the Città Alta. The garden’s diverse collection of plants, arranged in thematic sections, offers a delightful insight into the world’s floral diversity. The view from the garden, with the Città Alta looming above and the Città Bassa stretching out below, was simply beautiful and quietly one of my favourite things I did in Bergamo.
For lunch, I decided to try something contemporary at a popular local bistro, Al Carroponte. The restaurant is known for its innovative take on traditional dishes and its extensive wine list. I savored a dish of “Spaghetti grandi Carla Latini con aglio,” a shrimp spaghetti dish with garlic, oil and pepper. It was a beautifully balanced dish that paired classic Italian tradition with the lower city’s modernity. Paired with a glass of locally produced wine, it was a stunning meal.
In the afternoon, I embarked on a short trip to San Pellegrino Terme, a picturesque town about 30 minutes from Bergamo. San Pellegrino Terme is a tiny gem of the Lombardy region and is home to the San Pellegrino beverage, this being my favourite drink to consume when thirst hits abroad, I thought it a no-brainer to visit the town in which it was created.
This town is ambushed with tall green mountains and a clear blue river flowing through it, thus I thought it the perfect spot to indulge in some more snacks via a picnic. I headed to the local shop and armed with cannolis, crisps and fizzy drinks, I sat in a nearby park and took in the views. A few hours and a few San Pellegrinos later and I hopped on the bus back to Bergamo.
Returning to Bergamo in the evening, I felt a mix of contentment and sadness, knowing my time in this beautiful city was coming to an end. For my dinner, I headed back to Città Alta for Ristorante da Mimmo, highly recommended by my hostel. Having enjoyed some delicious food over my two days here, I thought it perfect to end the trip with an Italian classic – pizza! The pizza here is delicious, I opted for a simple margherita and it was perfect.
As I sat on the restaurant’s terrace overlooking the city below, I reflected on my two days in Bergamo. This city, with its perfect blend of history, wonderful cuisine, and natural and man-made beauty, is the perfect destination for a few days away. From the romanesque charm of the Città Alta to the vibrant new energy of the Città Bassa, Bergamo offered a truly authentic Italian experience for such a short time here. This is the perfect destination for a short trip or weekend away, and although there are endless little Italian gems around this gorgeous country, I can’t help but wonder if there are many more perfect and more importantly, easily accessible than that of Bergamo.