Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, where bicycles rule the streets, and hygge (cosiness) is not just a concept but a way of living. This charming city, with its blend of historical architecture and renowned modern design, offers a myriad of experiences that cater to every type of traveller. Join me as I recount my delightful adventures in this Nordic wonderland.
Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions
Touchdown in Copenhagen
The efficiency and friendliness of the Danish people were immediately apparent as I breezed through customs and found my way to the city centre using the ultra-convenient metro system. The airport itself was a marvel of Scandinavian design—clean lines, minimalistic decor, and plenty of natural light.
Check-In at Next House Copenhagen
For our stay, I chose a private room in Next House Copenhagen. This trendy and atmospheric hostel is located right in the centre next to tivoli gardens, as well as museums and popular brunch spots. The hostel has several room options for all types of visitor and includes a Gym, indoor football pitch and rooftop terrace, making it the perfect option for budget travellers. We headed straight to the nearby Kafe Kopenhag for some traditional Danish refreshments and coffee, diving into the hygge mood right away.
Strolling Along Nyhavn
Our first stop was Nyhavn, the iconic 17th-century waterfront, canal, and entertainment district. The colourful townhouses lining the canal, the historic wooden ships moored along the quayside, and the bustling cafes and restaurants create a picturesque scene straight out of a postcard. Enjoying a leisurely walk and soaking in the vibrant atmosphere (and snapping countless photos) at Nyhavn is truly the best way to begin your trip in Copenhagen.
Time for Cinnamon Swirls
For a quick snack head over to Skt. Peders Bageri. If you’re a fan of Cinnamon Swirls you’re in for one hell of a treat! These beautiful sweet treats are one of the national pastries of Denmark, and you’Il find the absolute best ones here. Mouthwatering and perfect in every sense of the word. We came back here every single day and I would head back to Copenhagen in a heartbeat just for these. If there’s anything that’s a must-do in this blog post it’s this bakery.
The happiest country on Earth?
After a delightful break, make your way to the Happiness Museum. A small museum that shows you why Denmark is often called the happiest country on Earth, an explanation of happiness through Hygge and how you can measure something as subjective as happiness. This museum will take you through Nordic happiness and the science behind a smile, to the history of happiness and what the future holds for our happiness in general as influences such as technology and AI become more active in our lives.
Dinner Time!
Having sampled a taste of Danish cuisine throughout the day, it’s time for something closer to home, Italian! Now, even though Ireland is quite far away from Italy, we both have it down as our favourite cuisine in the world so far. Ristorante Italiano is the oldest Italian restaurant in Copenhagen, and certainly still one of the best. Set in a beautifully themed interior dawned with red roses and wine bottles, and brought to life by the live guitarist and friendly atmosphere, this was the perfect spot for a romantic first dinner and the perfect way to see off our first day in Copenhagen. Almost.
Jazz Night
I say almost, because we opted to see our first night off with an elegant drink in La Fontaine. This intimate veteran of the Scandinavian jazz scene was both lively and charming. With fairy lights hanging above the bar, captained by a friendly team of staff who were eager to strike up conversation with their customers and nightly jazz jam sessions this was the perfect way to bring in our night and we couldn’t recommend it more.
Day 2: History and Culture
A Royal Visit to Amalienborg Palace
In the afternoon, it’s time to see the Amalienborg Palace, the residence of the Danish royal family. The four identical classical palace façades around an octagonal courtyard were impressive, and I was lucky enough to witness the Changing of the Guard ceremony. The Amalienborg Museum offered a fascinating glimpse into the lives of Danish royals, with beautifully preserved rooms and exhibits showcasing royal artefacts.
Lunch at Torvehallerne
For lunch, we made our way to Torvehallerne, Copenhagen’s bustling food market. With over 60 stalls offering a variety of local and international delicacies, it’s a food lover’s paradise. Here was where I would try the national dish of smørrebrød, a traditional open-faced Danish sandwich, topped with fresh seafood and other delicious ingredients. A glass of Danish elderflower lemonade complemented the meal perfectly.
An Afternoon at The National Museum of Denmark
Post-lunch, we visited The National Museum of Denmark, which offered a comprehensive look at Danish history and culture. From Viking artefacts to Renaissance art, the museum’s extensive collection kept me engrossed for hours. As a huge admirer of Viking lore and history it was extremely satisfying to see the numerous artefacts found from settlements all across the nordics and beyond. The interactive exhibits and detailed explanations make it an enriching experience, shedding light on Denmark’s rich heritage.
Exploring the Tivoli Gardens
The next morning, we set out to explore Tivoli Gardens, one of the world’s oldest amusement parks. Opened in 1843, Tivoli Gardens is a magical place that blends old-world charm with modern attractions. I spent the morning wandering through its beautifully landscaped gardens, riding the vintage roller coasters, and enjoying some live performances. The blend of fun and vintage, together with my love for roller coasters and theme parks made it a highlight of the trip.
Dinner at Höst
When we travel, we always try to have at least one dinner dedicated to the local cuisines and specialties, even if we may not particularly like the sound of the ingredients, we feel it tightens your opinion on new destinations and makes you feel more local in an otherwise foreign place. For this reason, dinner was at Höst, a restaurant that epitomises New Nordic cuisine. The menu, focusing on seasonal and locally sourced ingredients, offered a culinary adventure into Danish delicacies. Each dish was a work of art, both in presentation and taste. The rustic yet elegant decor added to the dining experience, making it a meal to remember.
Open-Mic and Drinks
Recommended by a good friend of ours, we thought tonight the perfect time to grab a drink at Mojo. This compact, yet lively bar consists of blues, jazz and folk music from Scandinavian and international artists and aims to showcase the talent of local students, musicians and strangers through open-mic sessions several times a week. We loved our night here hearing all of the local talent & talking with the friendly bar staff about our time in Copenhagen.
Day 3: Art, Architecture, and Local Life
Morning at Rosenborg Castle
Our third day began with a visit to Rosenborg Castle, a stunning Renaissance castle surrounded by beautiful gardens. The castle, built by Christian IV in the early 17th century, houses the Danish crown jewels and royal regalia. The old interiors, with their intricate tapestries and furnishings, were a grand testament to royal grandeur. I recommend heading here with a picnic and heading to the nearby park overlooking the castle for some breakfast amidst a stunning backdrop.
The Artistic Haven of Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek
Next, it’s time to explore the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, an art museum founded by the Carlsberg brewery’s founder, Carl Jacobsen. The museum hosts an impressive collection of works from ancient civilizations to 19th-century European art, with masterpieces by Rodin, Gauguin, and Van Gogh. The winter garden, with its tropical plants and tranquil atmosphere, was a perfect spot to relax after plenty of walking around.
Lunch at Grød
For lunch, we ventured to Grød, a cosy eatery specialising in porridge. This might sound simple, but Grød elevates porridge to a near gourmet level, offering a variety of sweet and savoury options. I opted for a bowl of oat porridge topped with caramelised apples, almonds, and a drizzle of local honey. It was absolutely delicious, and quintessentially Danish. A nice way to bring in the afternoon and quirky take on simple food.
Panoramic Views of the City
Head on over to the Church of our Saviour, a towering 17th-century place of worship that includes steps up to the very tip of its spire. This may be a bad idea for those in fear of heights, however if you can push through that fear the view from the top of the church is a must-do. Spanning over the city and with a birds eye view of our next stop, Freetown Christiania, the panoramic views of Copenhagen are stunning to behold and we had fun pointing out all of the sights seen thus far during our time in the city.
An Afternoon in Anarchy
In the afternoon we headed to Christianshavn, a fascinating district known for its canals and the freetown of Christiania. Freetown Christiania, with its colourful murals and alternative lifestyle, offered a stark contrast to the rest of the city. It was a fascinating place, filled with creativity and a strong sense of community. The town is an intentional community and is independent from Denmark’s own set of laws, having its own ‘government’ and laws. Grab a coffee from the local cafe and wander around, taking in the fascinating ways in which the local residents live their lives.
Dinner on a Budget, or not?
Head on over to Reffen for some of the best street food Copenhagen has to offer. This sprawling venue is the nordics largest street food market and has live entertainment, games and endless stalls offering global street food. Located by the water in an old industrial site, this lively market is a must-do and can be enjoyed as a quick stop or to bring the night in.
For those not on a budget, book in advance and head to dinner at Noma, a world-renowned, three time Michelin star restaurant that needs no introduction. Known for its innovative approach to Nordic cuisine, Noma offers a dining experience unlike any other in the world, literally. Each dish served is a revelation, showcasing the best of local ingredients and culinary craftsmanship.
Day 4: Day Trips and Delightful Discoveries
A Little Walk to a Little Statue
On our final day, we started off with a dander in Churchillparken. This lovely green space graced with waterways and natural beauty is the home of The Little Mermaid statue, an iconic sculpture by Edvard Eriksen dedicated to a character from Hans Christian Andersen’s fairytale. The statue is tiny and certainly not a must-do in Copenhagen if you don’t have the time, but we loved the walk in the park along the water’s edge and thought it the perfect way to begin our last day in Copenhagen.
Shopping and Eating
Just outside of the centre we have Jægersborggade. This vibrant street is the home to vintage clothes shops, independent jewellery designers, art galleries and florists. A nice way to dive into local craft and talent. Just a short walk away we had Brunch in the amazing Sidecar, a cafe that serves stunning food with a surprising inclusion. At this spot you order a main dish and drink from the small menu and then in the middle of the cafe there is a platter of other delicacies laid out for you to take as much as you like. And there’s more! Your main dish is unlimited, meaning you can order as much food as you like at no extra cost. One of the nicest brunches we’ve had anywhere in the world.
The Round Tower
Back in the centre for a quick visit to the Round Tower, a 17th-century tower known for its unique spiral ramp instead of using a staircase. The climb to the top is rewarded with panoramic views of the city, and the tower itself houses a planetarium, events hall and large art gallery half way up to the top.
Wandering Around the City
We chose to spend our final evening in Copenhagen taking in the friendly atmosphere and charming lifestyle of the city. Wandering around the cobblestoned streets, admiring the colourful buildings and famous danish architecture we stumbled into a few stores, grabbed some more danish pastries at Buka bakery and enjoyed some peaceful downtime after a fun-packed few days.
Dinner With a View at Nyhavn
Head on back to the beautiful Nyhavn to bring in your final night. Grab some food and sit by the water’s edge, taking in the charming atmosphere of this stunning location as the lights illuminate the pier and decorate the docked boats. Whilst here, make sure to head on over to the former residence of Hans Christian Anderson, the famous poet and author of books like The Little Mermaid and The Ugly Duckling. The house is now a souvenir shop dedicated to his memory and offers cute souvenirs crafted to the works of the revered author.
Reflections on Copenhagen
As we packed our bags and prepared to leave, I couldn’t help but reflect on the magical time we had in Copenhagen. The city’s blend of history, hygge culture, and happiness, coupled with its warm and welcoming people, made it an unforgettable experience. From the charming streets of Nyhavn to the mesmerising cuisine, every moment was a treasure.
Copenhagen is a place I would return to again and again, and it’s a place that can be experienced in every season as with each new season brings a different blend of things to do. In the winter months you can wander in the christmas markets of Nyhavn, in the summer months you may experience the lively markets of Reffen and go for a swim in the public canals. No matter the temperature, this city will indulge you with its happiness and unique charm.